鹿港擁有完整的古跡保存區與歷史久遠的廟宇,在鹿港生長的我卻和大部分的鹿港人一樣,認為它不過是個過渡的海濱小鎮,年輕人想出走的城市,然而誰總是在世世代代的風中輕語著她昔日的風華。直到這幾年與外國背包客的交流增多,每當沙發客朋友的相機停留在一個不起眼的轉角或招牌老舊的神桌店時,我才重新認識鹿港的深厚與人文的可貴。
Lukang owns well-reserved historic preservation and several venerable temples. I grown up in here and take the same thoughts toward to Lukang just like many Lukang people, that Lukang is nothing more than a fading coastal town as like many of others in Taiwan and where young people should leave for pursuing a hopeful career. However Lukang, who whispers its ancient flourishing stories in the descendant winds. Until recent years I got some chances to accompany with couch surfers from various countries, together with them I re-discovery my hometown and have started to learn about Lukang with a pair of curious backpacker eyes.
A glance of Lukang.
瑤林街的"人入"磚,在鹿港隨處可見智能與藝術的融會。
In Chinese word, 人means "people", 入means "please in", together the pattern means "Welcome many people". The red brick shows the ancient integration of art and wisdom.
對於許多離家的旅行者而言,遇見的人測量了一座城市的親疏遠近,心靈的鏈接強過空間的三元觀。而鹿港,已經決定了背包旅行最重要的要素,溫暖的人情。曾有一位旅行20多國的韓國朋友告訴我「鹿港親切得太不可思議,讓我的旅行完整了!」
For most of travelers, the people we met determined the way to measure the distance of a city. The connection of spirit is stronger than the visible geographical boundaries.Lukang has already radiated the most important light for travelling which is “warming human interest.”A Korean friend of mine was travelling 20 more countries and once said to me that “the friendly Lukang is too amazing, it has completed my journey.”
人情味不分男女老幼天上人間。
關於鹿港地名的說法很多,但我最喜歡這個最顧名思義的版本: 中部一帶昔日多鹿,常有鹿群聚集海口草埔,故名鹿仔港,後簡稱鹿港。
In common parlance, there are four origins about the name of Lukang, but I like this one most which is“There used to be a lot of deer in the middle part of Taiwan which often gathered in grassland of the seaport, hence, it was named Luzaikang, shorted as Lukang afterwards.
While strolling about through Lukang we bumped into the deer by chance and it let our kids keep the imagination of ancient Lukang.
鹿港的興盛則與中國漢人移民有地緣上的關系,十七世紀中,當時福建沿海居民為了討生活(福建七山二水一分田)與生意往來,因而移民來台灣。鹿港遂發展成為早年移民台灣的中部最大港。
The development of Lukang is related to the proximity to Mainland China. During 17th center, the coastal resident in Fijian province migrate to Taiwan for living (a saying about Fijian is mountains 2 water and 1 plain field) thus Lukang has become a biggest harbor of middle Taiwan, In 1784 Lukang was designated as the busy Taiwan seaport for shipping links with Chuanchou city (China泉州).
多數的鹿港人民祖先從漳州、泉州過來,施振榮先生曾在參加某國際會議時,大陸國家主席對他的口音感到很好奇,他說:「我這是鹿港口音,鹿港的先民是從泉州來的。」
An overall majority of Lukang people’s ancestor are from Changchou or Chuanchou. The founder of Acer group Stan Shih once during his meeting in APEC, chairman Hu of PRC was very curious about his accent. Shih answered,” I love this Lukang accent, my forefather came to Taiwan from Chuanchou.”
鹿港中山路典型的歐式老房,也是施振榮先生的老家。現為施美玉香鋪。
A typical house on ChungShan Rd., Which is Stan Shih’s old house. Also known as Shimeiyu incense shop.
與我的父親(左),2012年循著祖譜至中國泉州探訪祖先祠堂,與7代前的遠親問候(中、右),這裡與鹿港的說話口音確實有一些相像,但是用詞稍微不同。200年以前許多台灣人的祖先,就是從這個地方出發,移民至台灣成家立業。
Followed the blurred address according to my family tree, my father and I travelled to Chuanchou city, China in 2012 to visit my real remote relatives (I am the 7th generation since my ancestor migrate to Taiwan).
也因為早期發展的移民文化與海洋貿易,使得鹿港的廟宇比便利商店還多,實際也是全台廟宇密度之冠。
A saying about the numerous temples in Lukang is " 3 steps a small temple, 5 steps a big temple." Indeed the density of temple is highest in Taiwan.
廟宇香火鼎盛,使得"假日皆好日"的鹿港也傳承著台灣重要的廟會文化,人人皆喜愛、老少皆鹹宜。
Temple Fairs were held on auspicious day base on the lunar calender. But is now plays on weekend due to the changing of social model and life transition. Lukang is one of the best places to photograph the festivals due to the good attendance of temple.
鹿港的命運與九曲巷一樣彎曲?!
The destiny of Lukang is just as curved as "Nine-Curved Lane" ?
鹿港風華曾經超過半個世紀,但泥沙淤積與中日戰爭(1937)關閉港口使得港口功能喪失,光采不再。但是另一個對現代更直接的影響應該是在鐵路運輸盛興的年代,鹿港卻與之失之交臂,但為何鐵路不來鹿港呢?
After 60 years flourishing in commerce, Lukang came down with alluviums in the harbor, quite a lot of changes in personnel and the happen of The Sino-Japanese war(1937). And one the other direct reason was the Taiwan railway didn't set Lukang as a station. But why?
有一個說法是鹿港的地方仕紳強烈反對,怕鐵路斬斷了龍脈風水,日本人也就順水推舟,藉此孤立鹿港,擺脫了舊勢力的糾纏,也減少"市街改正"的預算。老鹿港,卻也意外地被保留下來。
Lukang local gentry were strongly against the railway station due to the concern about FengShui. The Japanese government were pushing the boat along to with the objection so as to get rid of the past power of local gentry. On the other hand, it could be a nice way to shorten the budget of " district improvement." Hence Lukang, perchance keeping the original architectures remain.
古跡的保存是意外的,工藝的延續卻是堅持的。 在鹿港的巷弄中總能發現為傳統付出的身影。
The remanding old buildings have been restored by chance, and the traditional handicrafts have been persisted by belief or principle which I am too green to understand. By wandering through Lukang's narrow alleys, we can always discovery the masters of art and tradition.
鹿港有一句俗諺說:「富過三代,方之飲食。」 和台灣很多早期發展的地方一樣,鹿港的民俗點心與小吃,好吃也好看。 第一市場是鹿港人打牙祭的地方, 如面線糊、龍山肉羹、肉圓、潤餅、芋圓、鴨肉冬粉或年舌餅、蚵仔煎等... 20年,在這裡可能還無法稱做為老店。
There is a local saying in Lukang, " Beyond the 3rd rich generation, just knowing how to appreciate food and drink." Lukang First traditional market provides various choice of traditional food and street food. such as thick rice noodle soup, thick soup with meat and seafood, taro balls, mud shrimp dish, meat buns... and so on. 20 year-old in here, may not old enough to be called as an old shop.
鹿港人有好客的基因,我想這也是我試著寫博客的原因,希望每個台灣人跟每個外國人都來鹿港散步、旅行。
以上是鹿港的小簡介,黑體字的部分都是要繼續延伸的主題,也是鹿港值得深入的題材。我將繼續上課並把更完整的信息與大家分享! 謝謝參考指正
Lukang people own the DNA of hospitality, and it might be the reason that I start to write the blog. Sincerely I wish that every Taiwanese and every foreign friend can come to Lukang to have a nice travelling. above is a brief introduction to Lukang, boldface words are the topics that I am going to carry on. But before that I will have to study more and sharing a more complete and precise information. Thank you!